WHY IT MATTERS: Ireland's Disappearing "Ancient Woodlands"

(Right: Willow catkins)

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There were no signposts, no paved paths, no markers of human design—just a tangle of trees and the darting trails made by the foxes and rabbits that called it home. To reach it, you had to cross fields full of cows and scramble over bramble-covered stone walls. We never saw other families there, and as far as I knew, this little woodland didn’t even have an official name. But to me, as a child, it was magical. Amongst ourselves, we called it "The Fairy Forest."

From the moment we ducked in through the low-hanging branches, we entered another, ancient world—one filled with stories and creatures. Fairies hid quickly beneath mossy rocks the moment they heard us giant humans coming. They lept from branch to branch, leaf to leaf, always just out of sight. I truly believed that if I sat still and quiet for long enough, one day, I’d finally spot one.

(Top: Mosses, Bottom: Wood Anemone)

And because the ravine that held this small hazel and oak woodland was too steep to farm or for cattle to trample through, the woodland remained untouched year after year. Every April and May, the ground was swallowed by a soft haze of bluebells, cowslips, and wood anemones. In late summer and autumn, we gathered hazelnuts. 

Later, I would work on tree-planting projects in a big city and visit much larger planted forests in the east and south-west of Ireland. For a time, I studied in Denmark and found an apartment at the edge of one of the famous beech forests of Jutland, Denmark. I camped among California’s redwoods on a road trip across the USA, and wandered through China’s bamboo rainforests, and explored Iceland’s tiny, magical woodlands. 

And I began to truly understand the vast difference between tree plantations (collections of planted trees) and the lure of long-established woodlands —living, interdependent ecosystems that provide a home for a wide range of plant and animal life.

I began to read more and more about Ireland’s "ancient woodlands" and then it finally dawned on me. That tiny forgotten scrap of woodland, the “fairy forest” of my chidlhood, was very likely an ancient woodland—a small remaining fragment of the vast forests of myths and legend that once covered all of Ireland and Britain.

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My childhood "fairy forest" sparked a lifelong curiosity about "ancient woodlands". 

In this guide, we’ll explore what defines an ancient woodland, how to identify one, and why these ecosystems are so ecologically and culturally important. We’ll also look at the threats they face today and what needs to be done to protect them.

By the end, we hope that you’ll have the tools to recognize these rare and irreplaceable landscapes—and, hopefully, a deeper appreciation for the stories they hold.

So - Let's get going!

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Did you know that once upon a time, all of Ireland and Britain were covered in dense, tangled ancient woodlands? 

These forests stretched across the land and were home to countless species of plants and animals. Our ancient woodlands shaped folklore and mythology.

But over centuries, these woodlands were largely cleared. Trees were cut down for timber and fuel, and as more land was needed for farming, forests gradually shrank. In Ireland in the 16th and 17th centuries, large-scale deforestation occurred as Irish oak, elm, and ash were felled for shipbuilding, iron smelting, and the construction of English towns and estates.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, even more forests were cleared to make way for agriculture as Ireland’s population boomed (before the Famine), and timber was used in charcoal production for ironworks. By the early 20th century, Ireland had one of the lowest forest cover rates in Europe—less than 1%, according to some estimates. Afforestation efforts began in the 20th century, but much of it was commercial plantations of non-native conifers rather than the restoration of native woodlands.

Very often, the only fragments that remained—echoes of the old woodlands—were areas left behind in steep ravines, inaccessible hillsides, parts of “big house” estates, and along riverbanks. These were places where trees were harder to clear or where the land was deemed unsuitable, so they were spared from farming or urban development.

And this is an important point to pause on as this story continues: remote and inaccessible terrain is largely what has protected these little pockets of ancient woodlands for hundreds of years. But at the same time, the very inaccessibility of these places is why our ancient woodlands are now at risk—underappreciated, unmapped, unprotected, and under threat. 

(Above: Pignut)

So, you might ask - how old does a woodland have to be to be considered "ancient"?

Well… There is no single straightforward answer.

In Ireland, the National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) defines an ancient woodland as a forest that has had a continuous history of tree cover since before afforestation became common (mid-1600s).  

And how do we prove this dating?

One of the most common ways in which ancient woodlands are dated is through palaeoecological research… which includes pollen analysis, sediment composition, and even ancient DNA. 

But due to the expense of palaeoecological research and the unreliable nature of older maps, we also have the category of Long Established Woodlands (LEWs) to describe areas that we know have remained continuously wooded since the first edition of the more reliable first “Ordnance Survey” maps in the 1830s.

And then in Ireland we also have the collective term Ancient and Long Established Woodlands (ALEW)—a not-so-catchy catch-all term for these rare and special pockets of woodlands.

(Left: Primrose, Right: Fiddlehead Fern)

Is the system of classification the same or different in the UK?

In the UK, the Woodland Trust defines ancient woodlands as areas that have existed since at least 1600 in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, and since 1750 in Scotland. This dating is based on when maps became accurate enough to confirm uninterrupted tree cover.

The Woodland Trust further classifies ancient woodlands into sub-categories that include:

Ancient Semi-Natural Woods – These have developed naturally and, though often managed for timber or other industries, have retained tree cover for over 400 years.

Plantations on Ancient Woodland Sites (PAWS) – These are ancient woodlands that have been felled and replanted, often with non-native species like conifers, beech, red oak or sweet chestnut. Despite this disturbance, their ancient soils and remnants of specialist woodland species remain.

Are you still with us?

Hopefully, we haven’t lost you with all these acronyms, and you’re beginning to get the complex picture.  - In short there are ways to define and identify "ancient woodland", but the process can be difficult, expensive, and time-consuming.

But this is a guide to “Ancient Woodlands,” right?

We are using the term "Ancient Woodland" as a catch-all term with the understanding that categorisation can be difficult to prove and may mean different things to different people. We also see that acronyms like PAWS and ALEWS won’t capture your heart and imagination, and the name “ancient woodlands” is more likely to get you to sit up and pay attention.

And we need to pay more attention. Because unfortunately, while we debate and ponder the processes of classification and how we define the criteria, many of these irreplaceable and out of site woodlands remain unprotected and are being cleared, right now, as we type. Take a look at the images below from a 2024 report by NPWS in Ireland. 

Read the full NPWS report here

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(Above: Wood Anemone)

So this brings us to the question - why are ancient woodlands so special that they need to be protected?

Ancient woodlands provide an ecological and cultural link to our prehistoric past, and they are also some of our most threatened habitats. Because they have existed in the same place for centuries, ancient woodlands support unique communities of plants, fungi, insects, and other organisms that are not found elsewhere.

Their undisturbed soils and decaying wood create habitats for specialist species, making them some of the richest and most complex terrestrial ecosystems.

Ancient woodlands are also irreplaceable. Once lost, the biodiversity they support cannot be recreated, as many species struggle to colonise new areas. Each ancient woodland is unique to its location, and once it disappears, it is gone forever.

So how can you find an ”Ancient Woodlands” near you?

In the UK, many ancient woodlands have been mapped and categorised in the ‘Ancient Woodland Inventory since the 1980s. While this likely does not include every ancient woodland, it is a great resource and a good place to start. 

Ireland does not have a similar nationwide mapping system, making it harder to identify sites. However, studies published in 2010 and 2024 have attempted to begin to map these sites (mainly using historic maps and palaeoecological research).  But again, due to the very fragmented and inaccessible nature of ancient woodlands many smaller pockets of woodlands are not going to be included or show up within this categorisation process. 

Right, so how do we, as self-identified amateur enthusiasts, identify an Ancient Woodland without a comprehensive database or access to pollen analysis?!

Of course, one way is to spend time online researching old maps. There are many of these online now and they are a valuable asset. 

But if you prefer the idea of spending your time outdoors in nature on a fine spring morning, the simplest and most enjoyable way to read a forest is to look for ancient woodland indicators.

(Top: Lungwort Lichen)

If we think of a forest as a puzzle or a mystery to solve, ancient woodland indicators are one of the key clues that can help determine whether a forest is ancient.

Ancient woodland indicator species are species of plants, fungi, and lichens that are slow to colonise new areas, meaning their presence suggests a woodland has been continuously wooded for a long time.

The most accessible ancient woodland indicators are plants. Though these vary by region, they generally provide strong evidence that a woodland has existed on a site for a long time. And the more of these species present, the more likely the woodland is ancient. 

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In Ireland and the UK, some of the best ancient woodland plant indicators include

Herbaceous Plants:

• Barren Strawberry – Spring to early summer
  
• Bluebell – Spring (April-May)
  
• Bugle – Spring to early summer
  
• Common Cow-wheat – Summer
  
• Common Dog Violet – Spring
  
• Dog’s Mercury – Spring (early)
  
• Early Purple Orchid – Spring (April-May)
• Enchanter’s Nightshade – Spring to summer
• Goldilocks Buttercup – Spring to early summer
  
• Great Bellflower – Summer
• Heath Bedstraw – Summer
  
• Herb Paris – Spring
  
• Herb-robert – Spring to summer
• Lords-and-ladies – Spring (early)
  
• Pignut – Spring
  
• Primrose – Spring (March-May)
  
• Ramsons – Spring (March-April)
  
• Sanicle – Spring to summer
• Small Cow-wheat – Summer
• Sweet Violet – Spring (early)
  
• Toothwort – Spring
• Tormentil – Summer
  
• Wild Strawberry – Summer to early autumn
• Wood Anemone – Spring
• Wood Avens – Spring to summer
• Wood Horsetail – Spring to summer
• Wood Sage – Summer
• Wood Sorrel – Spring
  
• Wood Speedwell – Spring to summer
  
• Wood Spurge – Spring
  
• Woodruff – Spring to early summer
  
• Yellow Archangel – Spring to early summer
• Yellow Pimpernel – Spring to summer
  
  

Ferns and Horsetails:

• Broad Buckler Fern – Spring to summer
• Hard Fern – Spring to summer
• Hard Shield Fern – Spring to summer
• Hart’s Tongue Fern – Spring to summer
• Lady Fern – Spring to summer
• Male Fern – Spring to summer
• Narrow Buckler Fern – Spring to summer
• Scaly Male-fern – Spring to summer
• Soft Shield Fern – Spring to summer
• Wood Horsetail – Spring to summer
  
  

Trees & Shrubs:

• Holly – Year-round (best in winter for berries)
• Sessile Oak – Year-round (best in autumn for acorns)
• Wild Crab Apple – Autumn
• Spindle Tree – Autumn
• Small-leaved Lime – Summer (flowers)
• Alder Buckthorn – Autumn
  
  

Fungi & Lichens:

• Bearded Tooth Fungus – Autumn to winter
• Green Elf Cup – Autumn
• Lungwort Lichen – Year-round (best in winter for clear air)

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But aren't we all trying to plant more native trees? Isn't that enough?

When we think more holistically we realise that woodlands are not just "trees". Our ancient woodlands are a complex inter-related eco-system. And the inter-relationships between species in these habitats have evolved over hundreds of years. 

Some plants hide their secrets underground. Take the rare Common Toothwort, for example. It’s white, cream, or pink and stands out because it doesn’t have chlorophyll to make food like most plants. The only part you can see is its flower. Below the soil, it has a complex root system and survives as a parasite on tree roots like Hazel and Alder. This ancient relationship, between plant and tree, can’t be recreated in a new forest.

Or, think about lungwort lichen. Some of these can be hundreds of years old. Once common, they’re now only found in the cleanest, purest air, like along the west coast of the UK. Lungwort was once found all over Ireland but is now only found in ancient woodlands in the west of Ireland.

What threats do ancient woodlands face today?

The EU Biodiversity Strategy for 2030 (European Commission, 2021) outlines a commitment to strictly protect all remaining EU old-growth forests. However, recent reports highlighted significant gaps in our knowledge of the extent of old-growth forests in Europe. Improved mapping of primary and old-growth forests has been identified as a key priority.

Before 2010, no inventory of ancient woodland in Ireland even existed. (In comparison, detailed inventories of ancient woodlands in Britain since the 1980s have become established tools in planning and conservation policy). 

Currently, almost 70% of the total area of Ancient and Long Established Woodlands identified in a study commissioned by the National Parks and Wildlife Services in Ireland in 2010 have no statutory protection. Despite their ecological, historical, and cultural significance, undesignated ancient woodlands are at increased risk of degradation and even deforestation. 

It is our responsibility to protect these ancient woodlands, not just for ourselves but for generations yet to come.

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It has been quite the adventure to get here—crossing fields and ditches. Along the way, the children have each picked up a “walking stick”—a hazel rod they’ve been using to poke at puddles and turn over stones. They’re searching for insects,  it’s still a little too cold but we leave them at it.

The sun streams through the open tree canopy. It casts its light and energy onto the carpet of new growth on the forest floor.

 

We are exploring what we think might be an "ancient woodland". So far today, we have spotted violets, wood sorrel, celandine, pignut, fiddlehead ferns, toothwort, and wood anemones. We have also found tadpoles in the water and pollen-covered hazel catkins in the trees. We have spotted a vast range of strange, crispy lichens and feathery mosses. And we have inspected the patch beneath the hazel trees where, in a few weeks, we’ll come back to marvel at the annual haze of bluebells.

We settle on some springy, moss-covered rocks for a small picnic. It’s late March, and though the sky is bright blue the air still holds a chill. 

We open our flask, and steam drifts up into the air. The children take turns sinking their hands deep into the moss—the four-year-old reaches almost up to her armpit. She is delighted.  They each take a small cup of hot chocolate and perch on a mossy stone. For a moment, the forest is silent. Then we listen to the drone of slurry spreaders and milking machines at work in distant fields.

Later, on our way back, I spot something bright green flutter from branch to branch, just at the edge of my vision. Did you see that? I ask. The nine-year-old gives me a sceptical look, suspecting I’m spinning another fairy tale. There! I say again. They turn—nothing.

"What did you see?" the four-year-old asks, eyes wide with excitement, ready to believe anything I tell her.

And then, all at once, we see it together—a kaleidoscope of bright green brimstone butterflies dancing through the branches.

"Wow," says the just-turned-two-year-old. 

We continue our trek back across the fields and along an old famine road, hazel rods tapping against the ground. I think of the “fairy forest” in my childhood. Back then, I didn’t need a historian or a specialist in pollen analysis to tell us our little forest was ancient and special. I knew it because I saw the love my father had for that place. He knew it because he had spent time there. And we all knew it was special because we could feel it.

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Words: Jo Anne Butler

Photography: Jo Anne Butler and Gearoid Muldowney

 

Further Reading:

Mapping, monitoring, and protecting ancient and longestablished woodland in Ireland

A provisional inventory of ancient and long‐established woodland in Ireland